Instead of going to Vermont and doing new mileage up there, I decided to clean up some [...]]]> I’ve been out playing in the woods for the last week or so. What’s more “primal play” than this? I did a lot more rock climbing than usual, and I enjoyed every minute of that.

Instead of going to Vermont and doing new mileage up there, I decided to clean up some (comparatively) little gaps in my Appalachian Trail mileage in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. I actually had intended to complete New York as well, but I miscalculated a section in Pennsylvania, so I had to spend an extra day there. I’ve now hiked the southern 1,500 miles of the AT, except the 35 in NY I just mentioned. This means i need to hike from Danby, VT to Mt. Katahdin in Maine.

At no point on this trip did I get water anywhere but a spigot, so I was carrying at least one liter more than I usually carry (usually 2l, carried at least 3l this time).

All told, it was 84.6 miles, but the daily amounts were all over the place.

(NOBO is Northbound, SOBO is Southbound)

September 15 (NOBO) – PA 443, Green Point, PA -> Wm. Penn (8.7)
September 16 (NOBO) – Wm. Penn -> Eagle’s Nest (19.6)
September 17 (NOBO) – Eagle’s Nest -> Port Clinton, PA (7)
(drive north)
September 18 (NOBO) – Lehigh Gap, PA -> Wind Gap, PA (20.7)
(drive north)
September 19 (NOBO) – NJ 23 -> NJ 284 (near Unionville, NY) (9.8)
September 20 (SOBO) – Bellvale, NY at 17A -> Waywayanda Shelter (10)
September 21 (SOBO) – Waywayanda Shelter -> County 565 (Glenwood, NJ) (8.8)

Last Wednesday (15th), I started at 3:30 and finished at 6:15. I was expecting there would actually be water at the shelter. Unfortunately, it was totally dry. Shortly after that, while figuring out how far I had to make it the next day, I discovered that it was actually 27 miles to Port Clinton, PA not 17, as I was expecting. It’s a good thing that I had enough food – I had really only been expecting an overnight. After that, I carried a lot more water!

Over all, it was an excellent trip. I got rained on all day on the 16th, but the weather the other days was spectacularly nice.

This is a bit of the view UP the climb out of Lehigh Gap, PA. This particular mountain is a Superfund Site damaged by zinc smelting fallout. The rock climb is about 1000′ of elevation, and then there’s some negotiation of a flatter version of the same kind of thing. I’d heard a lot about how rough it was, but I had a blast climbing it. This whole day, all 20.7 miles of it, was totally awesome. The climb would have been pretty terrifying if it had been wet, however.

This kind of scenery is all over the place on the AT in New Jersey. This farm is sort of near Vernon, NJ. Shortly before I took this photo, there was a herd of cows on the trail that I more or less chased off. They really had no where to go but down the trail, so I felt like a backpacking cowboy or something.

This was in the shelter register at Waywayanda Shelter in NJ.

Bellvale Mountain (the border of NY and NJ is on this stretch of trail) is about four miles of walking on these big humped boulders. The views of Greenwood Lake were fantastic, and since the weather was dry and cool again, it was tons of fun, at least for me. There was even a ladder at one point because you had to drop down six feet, and nobody wants to jump that with a backpack.

I took this towards the end of my hike. This boardwalk continues for at least a mile through Pochuck Marsh. It’s a really amazing piece of trail engineering. The Appalachian Trail is maintained by volunteers. Imagine building this thing for more than a mile through a swamp!

Since I see [...]]]> In another post, a commenter said they were having a hard time figuring out what people following Paleo or Primal diet were actually eating on a day to day basis. They also expressed interest in what I was going to eat while backpacking, and I will get to that in a moment.

Since I see photos of Paleo and Primal meals all over the web, I have to assume the commenter has looked hard enough to find that stuff. What I actually think *is* lacking, and maybe this is what they mean, is meal plans. With a meal plan, you can develop a shopping list. With a few photos of food, you can only really get the most basic ideas. Maybe you’d be presented with a way you hadn’t thought of using a vegetable or meat, but for the most part, the more mundane stuff is missing.

It’s not that I think this way of eating is boring, but what people post on their blog in terms of photos and recipes doesn’t really cover the day to day patterns of eating. It also doesn’t explain how to shop efficiently and get the most out of your groceries. What’s the weekly cycle of shopping for fresh meat, vegetables and fruit and then eating down the fridge? Added to that is an issue I’ve mentioned before: a lot of Paleo/Primal recipes are imitations of neolithic foods. I didn’t eat pancakes before, so why would I want them now?

Grocery lists and meal plans for a low-budget whole foods diet free of grains and legumes have long been on my list of things to do. Maybe it will bubble up to the top, but not today. This is a digression from my topic for today though: what I’m eating while backpacking.

For my last trip (June of 2009), I hiked down the Appalachian Trail from Gettysburg, PA to Harper’s Ferry, WV. The day I hiked into HF turned out to be one of the hottest days we saw all summer, and during the last bit of it, while I was walking through town among tourists eating drippy food (it was a Saturday) was absolutely miserable. The rest of the trip was nice, if a bit too warm, especially at night. I did one thing I’d never done before: I did not bring a stove.

I made the decision at the last minute. Every hike I run across at least one person (or couple) that don’t cook while backpacking, even people who thruhike the 2,100 miles of the Appalachian Trail mostly without cooking. I was trying to use a different backpack, and the rigidity of the pot and stove just made it impossible for me to fit my food and gear into that pack. This was all about volume and not weight, but I really wanted to use that pack, so I decided to go without the pot and the stove.

It worked out really well, and not because the weather was warm. I just cannot believe how much time I was spending farting around with the whole cooking process. Mostly, however, it took me an eternity to get GOING in the morning. I would delay doing my final packing because as long as I *could* have it, I’d think that I did want some hot tea (or coffee, but mostly I do tea on the trail). Knowing that my breakfast was ready to eat and that’s all there was did not depress me at all – it got me going a lot earlier. As far as lunch and dinner went, I had already gotten into a thing where I’d do my cooking at lunch or I would stop and cook dinner early so that I could hike nearly until dark and not have to mess with boiling water and waiting for stuff to cook while it was actually dark.

The reason I like to hike later in the day is that I have, for whatever reason, a lot more energy from 3pm to 8pm (roughly) than at any other time to day. It allowed me to take advantage of that, and it helped me get going in the morning – both things that are quite desirable.

It’s going to be colder hiking in May at high elevations, so I am bringing a cooking pot and some tea bags. I’m also bringing some instant coffee because I can make that with cold water, but if there’s a fire going, I can boil some water. Due to the way woodland water sources work, a pot is often very handy for dipping water out of a stream anyway, so even if I never boil water in it, it’s still useful. I’m also going to use my larger capacity pack which is actually also lighter than the smaller capacity pack I took in June.

As far as weight goes, my no-cook food weighs about 1.5 lbs. per day. This is about what my previous mix of cooked and no-cooked foods weighed. I really thought I had been gaining an advantage by carrying dehydrated stuff, but apparently not. Here’s what I’m planning to carry for each day:

And here’s a macronutrient breakdown:

And here are the RDAs, not that they necessarily apply if you’re not eating grains:

I put a Clif Nectar bar into Fitday, but I’m actually carrying a mix of LaraBars and Clif Nectar bars. Clif Nectars are no longer made, but they were very similar to LaraBars. They are 100% organic, gluten-free and contain five or fewer all natural ingredients. Both are just smashed up fruits and nuts with spices or cocoa powder added. The only Clif Nectar I’m sad to see go is the one that had cocoa and coffee in it. Those were awesome.

The powdered coconut milk is from Wilderness Family Naturals. It does not like to dissolve in cold water, but I mixed some up at home by shaking the hell out of it (in very light plastic bottle I’m bringing for that purpose), and it was good enough to drink. Not perfect, but I really like coconut milk, so definitely good enough for me.

I dehydrated shredded carrots, and they are part of a salad-y thing that can be rehydrated in cold water with the pineapple. I have crystallized lemon (TrueLemon) and honey packets to make a dressing for it. I don’t really go in for honey at home, but considering the incredible work I’m doing out there, the larger amount of sugars I’m eating are just fine. I don’t eat much dried fruit at home, and I rarely eat food bars either.

The salmon is in foil packets. The 5 oz. of beef is actually 2 oz. of homemade jerky. The summer sausage is ordinary summer sausage. I have some fantastic local summer sausage that I wanted to use, but it’s got cheese and herbs and all kinds of stuff in it, and I’m not sure it will hold up for five days in my pack. I know the ordinary grocery store kind holds up just fine. So does cheddar cheese and butter, but I decided to carry no dairy on this trip. Coconut cream is something I can eat all on it’s own, and I can’t really do that with butter.

I’ll have a few extra things in case I need them, probably some more Clif Nectar/LaraBars. I will also have a few tea bags and some instant coffee, but as far as extra food goes…there’s a steak house (that’s hiker friendly) .3 miles off the trail right in the middle of my hike. I think it’s unlikely that I will pass it by, and there are other opportunities to eat food that I’m not carrying, so I will ultimately finish with some food left.

This section traverses the high balds of Hump Mountain, Yellow Mountain, and the eastern portion of Roan Mountain. The Trail passes over five [...]]]> I’m currently planning a backpacking trip for early May. I’m repeating a section of the Appalachian Trail that I really liked. Once piece of that is described by the guide book as follows:

This section traverses the high balds of Hump Mountain, Yellow Mountain, and the eastern portion of Roan Mountain. The Trail passes over five summits more than 5,400 feet above sea level and skirts the shoulders of Big Yellow Mountain and Grassy Ridge. Several of the finest remaining southern Appalachian balds, with their open, grassy summits, are found in this section.

It also includes my favorite shelter (so far) on the whole of the A.T.

There it is, lookin’ all tiny from the mountain to the north. It’s an old barn, and it’s drafty, but the setting is so, so nice.

I can’t resist the Appalachians in the springtime, and I can’t hike new-to-me trail in the spring since it’s mud season in New England.

Even with the shortcuts, this was a lot of miles. I did have a terrific day with blue skies and a nice breeze. High UV was the only real problem. The very high elevations [...]]]> 28-April-2009
Hurricane Mtn Shelter to Lost Mtn Shelter
28.2 AT Miles
20.1 Miles Hiked on the AT and on blue blazed shortcuts

Even with the shortcuts, this was a lot of miles. I did have a terrific day with blue skies and a nice breeze. High UV was the only real problem. The very high elevations on Mt. Rogers and the wind make the temps tolerable.

I stopped at Old Orchard for my first break. It’s 5 miles along, and I ate breakfast (well, I ate a dinner, but a meal anyway) and met Trekker, another lady hiker, this time, in a dress. Shortly thereafter, a large group of guys showed up, and I got lost in the sea of names. When I first arrived, two SOBO sectioners from Morgantown were there, and they were nice guys. There’s a beautiful and large tenting area here, and they were just packing up their gear out there when I arrived at 9:30.

I took the Pine Mountain Trail (old AT) which cut off mileage, but was still quite scenic. I saw a wild mare and a very small foal along there.

I took a break at Thomas Knob, mostly from the sun. It was actually cool in the shade there and I dug out my wind jacket. A few fighter jets flew over, which was a little surreal, frankly. I met five or six hikers there, but I can only come up with three names: Newt, Ninja and Tax Dollar.

I hiked up to Whitetop Mountain, which I remembered as being very scenic and open. I arrived about 5:30pm, and since I had a phone signal, I called home. I met a few hikers there, but we all decided to go on. They NOBO and me SOBO. I had energy, the weather was good and there was a road *very* nearby, and I knew I’d never get a good night’s sleep if anyone was using that road. Areas like that also tend to attract locals for drinking purposes, and since I’m on my own out there, I avoid camping near them.

So, after a short break and a water up (GREAT water source up there), I hiked the 5.5 miles to Lost Mountain Shelter arriving at 8:10. This left me barely enough time to get ready for bed before it got completely dark. I was the last to roll in, and I managed to get things done. I chatted with the hiker to stayed in the shelter, Cy. All the others had already gone to bed — there were tents all over the place and one other hammock, but I still found a pretty decent place to hang the hammock with no trouble.

In the morning I met Red Leg, Papa Doc, Papa and Ma Kasson (Ma & Pa K), and I eventually met Midget Mom, the other hammocker. The rest of the crowd did not come up to the picnic table. Tents were spread out all over.

*comments on phones and hiker registers*

29-April-2009
Lost Mountain to Damascus, VA
15.8 A.T. Miles
12.9 Miles hiked on the A.T. and the Virginia Creeper Trail

Since I did this section before and was determined to actually find a place to stay in Damascus this year (3rd time’s the charm!), I decided to take the Virginia Creeper Trail part of the way. It’s a little shorter, but it is completely flat. I crossed 20 bridges over Whitetop Laurel Creek, and it was a very pretty walk. The Taylor Valley, which includes a little mountain town, was quite scenic. There are two snack bars there, but neither were open when I went through around 10am. I did run into several NOBOS coming up that trail instead of going over Cuckoo Knob and Feathercamp Ridge. I saw less than 10 bicycles — it’s a biking, horse and hiking trail, officially.

It was cloudier and cooler today, which was nice. The VCT was also shadier, so I did not get more sunburned. At least I don’t think I did.

I stayed at the Montgomery Homestead B&B. Susie is a very nice lady, and breakfast was tasty. Hooray for bacon! I got up early (as I have every day on this trip), and I hiked up to Mocha Jo’s for coffee and to use their WiFi. I met Lone Wolf from Whiteblaze, saw Pirate again, and met another character who was with Pirate but did not introduce himself.

Tino could not come and get me in the plane because I could not get a decent weather window to make the trip down and back in one day. Rain was moving in on his end, and later, it would be down south where I was. I could not get one-way car rental from Abingdon, and I ultimately had to get a shuttle to Tri-Cities Airport near Bristol, TN. I was shuttled by a super guy named Gecko, so that was a pleasant trip. That airport was very, very quiet, and I got a nicer car than I had reserved on Priceline, a Pontiac G6. It was one of the easiest drives up I-81 I’ve ever done, and I’ve done quite a few.

I did look in to taking a bus, but the people at the outfitter said that would be a very bad idea, and the bus also did not go up the valley or anywhere near Front Royal. The car return was to Dulles, but that was much easier and closer than anywhere the bus went.

Tino flew me to Mountain Empire Airport (very friendly place!) since it’s almost on the AT. He took me down to the trail in a borrowed car with “official business” plates, and it immediately started pouring down rain. Since I needed some lip stuff anyway, I went into the Exxon [...]]]> 25-April-2009
Atkins, VA to Chatfield Shetlter
4.5 miles

Tino flew me to Mountain Empire Airport (very friendly place!) since it’s almost on the AT. He took me down to the trail in a borrowed car with “official business” plates, and it immediately started pouring down rain. Since I needed some lip stuff anyway, I went into the Exxon and bought some, then waited 10 minutes under their awning. Rain over — time to go! I actually saw Tino fly over me on his way back to Front Royal, which was pretty cool.

Easy hike, but either have a problem with a sock or with a shoe as I already formed a small blister. I took care of it, and the small distance today should help. I will probably change out the socks tomorrow and see if that helps.

I can’t believe I didn’t notice the Virginia Settlers Museum when I hiked this section NOBO in 2004. It was behind me, and I think I did a 24 mile day to complete a hike, so I was probably in a big hurry, and it was the end of the day. I guess I shouldn’t be so surprised!

There’s no where to tent here, but there’s a decent hammocking spot, so I’ll be hanging out for the night. Other hikers here include: Crawfish (a ‘99 SOBO thruhiker out for a short hike), Texas Chill (2009 NOBO), Javelin (2009 NOBO), Javelin’s wife (missed her name). Javelin and partner are Canadian French speakers. Whenever I hear so much talking in a foreign language, I always wonder how many people *can* understand them and if they generally assume everyone can’t!

It’s as buggy as I remember at this shelter. Yay.

Cow Pastures are pretty common on the AT, and I walked through one today.

I’m totally used up. My heels are blistered up good and proper now, but I did have a nice long break at Partnership Shelter with a lot of food brought in by Alex’s (2009 NOBO) parents. I met Nutmeg (F), Tin Man, The Darkness (F), Little Dipper (F), Billy Hoot (F), Boy George (dog), Katchup and Miss Muster (both F), Kate, Hot Sauce (F) and the Three Amigos (M). There were two more guys who’s names I missed, but that was a LOT of women. There are more women out here than I have ever seen outside of hiking couples.

I ate so much that I will be skipping dinner tonight in spite of a strenuous and somewhat rushed 10 miles here from Partnership. I think the hot, sunny afternoon had something to do with that.

Everyone at Trimpi threw their own bear line, which seems silly to me, and it’s extra work for everyone. Of course, it was nearly dark when I got here, and I had to fit that chore in too. I can usually get the bear line up on the first try — I’m pretty good at it, but it takes a while to find a good tree configuration, and since I didn’t throw a line last night (there was a huge and sweet natured dog at the shelter last night), my rope was kind of tangled up since I must have put it away hastily last fall.

Other hikers here are Maggie, Red Bar(on), Yeta and Captain Max.

27-April-2009
Trimpi Shelter to Hurricane Mtn Shelter
9.1 Miles

I thought I had planned my day so that I would not be hiking up hill in the heat of the day (it hit 92, which is very high when you’re climbing and carrying a pack), but I was sadly mistaken. The shelter was 2/3 of the way up the mountain, and it got hot earlier than I expected. I also got a later start than I would like from Trimpi, as I couldn’t manage to leave early since it felt like I had just gotten there.

When I arrived at Hurricane, Hermes and Dutch were here resting. Sassafrass and (Damn it, I just had her name!) are here and staying the night. No men at the shelter for the night at all. That is a first for me on the AT — all solo female hikers!

There’s nowhere to put a tent here, but a good place for a hammock where I’ll see the sunrise and get an early start tomorrow. I have a long day planned, but if it’s crazy hot again, I will make it shorter.

I’ll finish up the rest of this later or tomorrow, so this is it for Part I.

In this short 4.3 miles I was really grateful for my map. There were many junctions with woods roads and trails and the [...]]]> The day dawned bright and beautiful, and since I’d stayed up late enjoying all that hiker companionship, I got started quite late. I slept well, but I had a lazy morning.

In this short 4.3 miles I was really grateful for my map. There were many junctions with woods roads and trails and the foliage seemed to conspire to grow over blazes making it hard to find the trail. In this, the map really helped.

I had a wonderful break in a high meadow before I headed to the road. The descent was rugged and rocky including some fine trail work of rock stairs. My shuttler was on time and a very nice guy and we had a great deli lunch on the way back to Sheffield. My car was, of course, right where I left it but was now unbelievably dirty.

Just like the drive here, I made great time going home, though the GPS sent me via a completely different route.