8/14 ~ Race Brook Campsite (about 8 miles hiked)
Rumor has it that there is a brook here, one that has falls even. We couldn't find it, but the boys were nice enough to bring me a couple of liters of what they did find. It's filterable, so it will do for me. I have a bit to drink while I let the dirt settle out of this.
I met these two guys at Riga, Rock and Salty Bear. Rock has done all the trail from Springer, but Salty Bear skipped the middle third and is just getting back on. They are taking it slow, and they are good guys, so we hiked together today.
Today was a real bitch because the thunderstorm make the mossy rocks super slick. It's like they were *oiled*. The climb up Bear Mtn (yes, another Bear Mt, this one is the highest point in CT at 2500 ft or so) wasn't bad, but the decent was evil and wiped out a few times. It was godawful muggy all day. There was no view from Riga this morning and the long views today were all socked in pretty well with fog. Sages Ravine was very pretty, but with all the rocks and roots wet, it was tough hiking even though it was mostly flat.
It's pouring again, but I'm now in MA, so I guess that's something. I've never been here before, after all.
I've been unable to dry my clothes or pack for days, and the pack is so soaked with sweat that it's getting through to my sleeping bag. I know that's really gross, but it's true. I'll probably stay at this site as long as I can tomorrow and try to dry out my gear. Overall, the stretch of heavy humidity is making me miserable, and I want to quit.
Maybe things will look better tomorrow.
8/15/1999 ~ 9am, Race Brook
Things look slightly better. It's raining again (it stopped for a few hours early this morning), but since I've decided to take the day off (or nearly so), I don't care. There is a privy here, so that's pretty good. I couldn't see it yesterday because it was dark and raining when we got here at 5pm. Also, I set my tent up on a platform, so I've got drainage for the rain. That is a very good thing.
I'm still amazed that I managed to pitch this tent on a wooden deck, but it worked out perfectly. I also got the best night's sleep I've gotten since coming back out on the trail.
Salty Bear and Rock took off about 15 minutes ago. I really feel for them. I know Rock needs to make the miles, but it's a lousy day to hike over Mt. Everett. It's like Bear Mt. yesterday - rocks all the way. Very hard in the rain.
I may go on to Glen Brook Leanto later this afternoon if it dries out a little. That's only 2 miles, basically up and over Everett.
I want to hit Upper Goose Pond Cabin on a weekday, and it's 3 hiking days away, and I need to get there before 5pm. I should be there Wednesday.
Posted by nicole at 05:22 PM8/15 ~ Glen Brook Leanto (2 big miles hiked (Woohoo!) )
Well, I got it together and hiked out. I'd been avoiding Mt. Everett in wet conditions, but it wasn't getting any drier today.
The ascent of .7 miles and 800 feet took me 45 minutes. That's a long time, but I didn't want to fall on those rocks. And it was all rocks going up -- rocks like PA rocks. The descent was only rocks for 100 feet, then it changed to gravel. The descent was much easier than I thought it would be. I like when that happens.
I'm heading for Tom Leonard Leanto tomorrow, 13 miles, rain or shine. It's supposed to be the "AMC Showplace" shelter in this trail section. This shelter is tiny and full. I'm on a tent platform, which works for me. The shelter is in a lovely spot, which is always a plus. It's a big hemlock grove, my favorite kind of site.
I'm now trying to talk myself into cooking dinner. I'm hungry, but it's wet out, and that just makes everything a little harder. I sure can't complain about being hot. I sweated a lot coming up Everett (or maybe not that much -- 100% humidity means all of it hangs around), but cooled way down on the descent. Now I'm actually cold. I guess cooking food would be a good idea.
Posted by nicole at 05:28 PM8/16/1999 ~ Great Barrington, MA (7.2 miles hiked)
OK, this time I'm really done. I've had a revelation: I'd rather have a job and all the comforts of home than live outdoors. There is great freedom on the trail, and I'll certainly miss that, but I now know why man came out of the forests into the cities.
I've been wet for a week, as has all my gear (the stuff that really needs to be dry is only slightly damp). I could probably deal with that for a little longer, but what I can't handle is descending piles of slippery wet rocks. I wiped out several times coming down Jug End, and I keep having these visions of hurting myself and being unable to get off the mountain on my own. I ended my hike at the Corn Crib on U.S. 7 near Sheffield MA. I celebrated by having a nectarine (OK), a plum (good), and a peach (maybe the best I've ever eaten) and some Berkshire Pumpkin Ice Cream, which was great. It's also something I've never seen before, but pumpkin works really well for an ice cream flavor.
I have nothing but respect for people who can hike the whole trail. I can't imagine the mindset necessary to do six months of what is very difficult hiking (any of you west coast people with your big mountains, I challenge you to hike 100 miles of the AT and then tell me it was easy). Ultimately what got to me was the deprivation, but make no mistake, the hiking is very hard. It's tremendous work, and it's virtually constant.
I've walked about 400 miles of the AT and I'm proud of that, but I'm not sure I'll be able to finish the trail. I don't want it badly enough for one thing. For another, I'd have to do sections over time, and I think that might be harder than thruhiking. You have to start cold every time, and by the time you get into it, it's time to go home.
Anyway, best of luck to all the great people I met. Hikers seem to have better dispositions than any group with which I've ever had contact. Thanks again to all the people who sent me cards, letters and stuff. It means more out here than you can imagine. I've also learned that I don't hate the East, I just hate Washington. The people in rural areas out here are just as terrific as midwesterners. Of course, I've never been to Boston, the largest city in New England, so it's hard to make a gross generalization, as always. I do love NYC though.
Today, I'll be taking a bus to Pittsfield, MA then an Amtrak train to Springfield, MA then another Amtrak train to Washington.
Posted by nicole at 05:31 PM